Report 4 February - Team B on board Pelagic
From King George Island towards Deception Island and the untouched parts of Antarctica

Thursday 4th Feb 22.00
We awoke to brilliant sunshine this morning and a flat calm bay. The temperature was a pleasant 4°C and there was little wind to add a chill. The chinstrap penguins darted about beneath the surface, occasionally leaping clear off the water to take a breath and show off their little pink feet. Even the usually menacing skuas seemed happy to take a break and just laze on the beach.

With a mug of tea and a slice of toast cut from the freshly made loaf the Russians gave us, it seemed to be one of those berrywheeze mornings. During a berrywheeze morning at home you'd get the post you wanted, the journey to work would be quicker than usual and people would seem more interested in you than themselves. But here in King George Island your eyes only have to stray to the shore 100m away for a shadow to fall over this idyllic scene.

Rusted, twisted metal, in all its forms, sits in a huge pile in the middle of the shore probably covering an area of 1000 square metres, 8 tracked vehicles sit in a rotten row looking forlornly out to sea, it must be many years since they last moved.

Looking more closely you see that the beach follows unusual contours and in fact it doesn't take much digging to uncover buried waste- bottles, cans and other man made debris. This is the hardcore waste of 30 years of human life on this part of King George Island.

And there is no escape from it in any direction- a walk to the seal colony on the western shore of the island follows a litter strewn path that ends with the sight of fur and weddell seals lying amongst broken pallets and bottles. With scores of disused barrels randomly cluttering the scene your pretty picture is now a snapshot of depression. After 5 hard days here we all now need to get away to the untouched and unabused parts of Antarctica.

Each of us have been absorbed in our various assignments at Bellingshausen and we have been warmed by the hospitality and co-operation we received,particularly from our Russian friends. It needs to be said that they see the same picture we do but they have virtually no resources at their disposal despite the brilliant science they conduct. They also recognise that this scene is representative of the past not the future and this bodes well for the aims of Mission Antarctica. So waving to a few poeple gathered on the shore we gently turn about and sail away, knowing for now, we've done what we can.

If our mood needed a lift it came in the form of two humpback whales, a mother and her calf, broaching the surface and blowing only metres from our boat. We steer a parallel course with them but as we drift silently their curiosity draws them near and after a 'display' lasting about 30 minutes they pushed their gigantic heads clear of the water and gave us all a knowing look before diving away.

Tonight we are anchored in the romantically named half moon bay, half way to Deception island,with it's breath taking back-drop of soaring,ice covered mountains. But as the day began so it must end and built into a corner of the bay is yet another base complete with military resupply ship sitting just off-shore. You begin to wonder what they are all doing here?...........

Jeremy Topple